Depois de falar de dois grandes ícones da história e da cultura, não só de Pequim, mas da China – Cidade Proibida e Muralha da China, chegou a vez de falar delas, as hutongs! Para começar, você tem ideia do que “hutong” significa? Graças ao app Pleco (já falei dele aqui) eu descobri que hutong significa “beco/viela” em mandarim. E as hutongs de Pequim nada mais são do que ruelas, pequenas ruas. Aliás, elas são sim mais do que isso…
As primeiras hutongs surgiram ainda na dinastia Yuan, há mais de 1000 anos passados, mas foram nas dinastias Ming e Qing que elas se desenvolveram mais rapidamente, chegando a cerca de 3.500 só na cidade de Pequim. Consideradas o coração cultural da tradicional Pequim, essas ruas antigas e cheias de surpresas são, portanto, passeio indispensável para quem quer conhecer um pouco mais da história da cidade.
Atualmente, há mais de mil hutongs percorrendo Beijing. O portão principal, geralmente, é voltado para o sul, obedecendo os princípios básicos do Feng Shui (da mesma forma que acontece na Cidade Proibida). A maioria dessas ruelas ainda servem de moradia para antigos moradores de Pequim e ao passar por estas, é possível ter uma ideia de como é a vida desses antigos – simples e pacata, como se estivessem em uma cidadezinha pequena do interior. Outras, onde o comércio se desenvolveu mais fortemente através da instalação de restaurantes, cafés, bares, lojas e hotéis são, claro, as mais frequentadas por turistas e locais.
A mais famosa é a Nanluogu Xiang {metrô de mesmo nome}. Ela mantem o estilo cinza e antigo das hutongs, mas as casinhas se tornaram lojas, cafés, bares, restaurantes e hotéis devidamente decorados. É a hutong que concentra o maior número de shops, desde lojas de chá, passando por artigos artesanais chineses, brinquedos até bolsas de couro e roupas de cama. Por ali, nós curtimos o Pass by Bar, um restaurante-bar que serve pratos ocidentais. A comida não tem nada de especial, mas é gostosinha, mas o que vale é o ambiente moderno e aconchegante e a variedade de cervejas importadas e ainda por um preço super generoso (Rodrigo fez a festa). Eu indico, pois o clima é super agradável. Agora, se você prefere um restaurante de comida chinesa, opções é o que não faltam. Ah, dezenas de outras pequenas hutongs cortam a Nanluogu Xiang, não deixe de passar por elas.
A Wudaoying Hutong também vale a visita. Achei que a rua faz muito juz ao estilo chinês: várias barraquinhas de petiscos, vendedores ambulantes, além de lojinhas de souvenirs e restaurantes. Fica do ladinho da Xiaoshibei Hutong, que passa pelos lagos Houhai. Ao redor dos lagos, há diversos restaurantes, bares e KTVs (karaokê chinês) e a noite, a região vira uma das principais áreas de nightlife. Tudo muito iluminado e colorido. Vale uma passadinha a noite para apreciar.
A Fangjia Hutong fica a poucas ruas ao sul da Wudaoying e é tão bacana quanto. Eu indico para aquela hora que bater a fome ou para um happy hour, já que os estabelecimentos são, em sua maioria, cafés, bares, restaurantes e casas de chá. Nós fomos caminhando, curtindo e parando aos poucos em cada cantinho para conhecer. O primeiro foi um restaurante mexicano que eu super indico (não lembro o nome, mas é fácil de achar). A sobremesa foi em um café super charmosinho e aconchegante com o tema Paris, tinha até crepe com nutella #yummy (o nome do café estava em mandarim seguido da palavra “dessert”) e por fim acabamos em um bar tibetano, que chamou nossa atenção por causa da decoração super colorida e diferente.
E não estranhe (quero dizer, você vai estranhar, mas já aviso), como as hutongs são ruas muito antigas, os banheiros públicos permanecem como eram antigamente: buracos no chão e sem divisórias! Isso mesmo, sem divisórias entre um buraco e outro. É tudo assim, liberado para quem quiser ver você fazendo suas necessidades. E a maioria dos restaurantes não tem banheiro, então você se obriga a usar o público. P.S: o pior é que os locais acham isso super comum. Entrei no banheiro feminino para conhecer e as mulheres estavam lá batendo papo enquanto acocadas fazendo sabe-se lá o que kkkkk
Mas o melhor das hutongs é caminhar despretensiosamente, apreciar as construções antigas e curtir os seus cafés, restaurantes ou tantas outras coisas que encontramos nessas ruelas. Tudo isso, sem se preocupar com o trânsito louco da cidade ou com as buzinas de carro – supostamente, não pode passar carros nas hutongs, mas como educação no trânsito não é o forte do chinês, vez ou outra nos deparamos com um automóvel tentando passar, mas nada que atrapalhe nossa agradável caminhada.
Definitivamente, é um passeio super gostoso e tranquilo no meio da tumultuada e agitada Pequim. Deve ser presença certa no roteiro de viagem de qualquer turista que venha à China. Você não acha?
Que banherinho safado hein
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